I am strolling along a cinnamon-brown trail on the floor of the valley of Viñales in western Cuba soaking up the panoramic views: a knobbly ridge of limestone mountains draped in green bush and the glossy fronds of towering royal palms lilting in the breeze.
It is March, deliciously warm, and modern life seems firmly out of sight; in fact it feels like I have walked back through time. As I wander, enjoying the quiet with my guide Sergio, he recounts stories of farming life, tobacco growing, and the UNESCO protection of the valley. The path leads to the Casa del Rey, a traditional, white-painted wooden home in a clearing.
A whiff of cigar smoke and a strong morning cocktail the colour of amber, greets us. I stay long enough for the hospitality, the laughter, and the Cuban knack for expert story telling.
The lush Viñales Valley is three hours southwest of Havana and on the road to nowhere else, but is being slowly discovered, says Alan Meadows, Trade Sales Manager, at Simply Cuba.
“Visitors are starting to see a lot more of the island and are using our sightseeing transfers. Instead of a twin centre, they’re going to the Viñales Valley and Trinidad,” Meadows says.
“Then, on the way to Trinidad, they’ll stop at the Bay of Pigs and Cienfuegos,” a reference to the site of the failed 1961 CIA-backed invasion now known for its birdlife, snorkelling and the French-founded city of columns on the south coast.
“It allows them to see a bit more of the island without unpacking their suitcase.”
Spending longer on the island is another trend – particularly for retired couples.
“Instead of 10-night trips we’re seeing a lot of 21 nights. Using transfers we add Santa Clara (city of Che Guevara) or as far as Camagüey (city of churches and culture in Cuba’s centre) and then they’ll come back for the northern shore beaches.”
Extended touring allows for nights at some of the new north coast beach resorts on Cayo Paredón and Cayo Cruz, both east of established resort Cayo Coco, in addition to Ramón de Antilla peninsula, two hours from the international airport at Holguín in eastern Cuba.
An emerging private sector across the island, particularly in Havana, has revved up and visitors will find creatives and entrepreneurs running new fashion stores in re-imagined Spanish colonial buildings, cool bars and music venues.
There are new art spaces and inventive chefs and café owners pulling out all the stops for fresh and tasty dishes.
With its history, music, culture, classic cars and beaches, Cuba remains an electric, enigmatic and exhilarating island to visit.
What’s New
e-visas: New e-visas for 2025 are available for a stay of up to 90 days. Purchase the £20 e-visa online allowing for up to 72 hours to process. evisacuba.cu/en/inicio.
Flights: Iron Travel and Triplatam plan new weekly direct flights from Gatwick to Havana from April 11 and to Holguín on April 13 using Romanian charter carrier, Legends. Fares from £549.99 return
plus taxes.
AeroGaviota now flies four times a week from Playa Baracoa (Havana) to Cayo Largo del Sur, an island resort off the mainland with outrageously beautiful beaches.
Hotels: Iberostar Selection La Habana, the tallest building in Cuba with 594 rooms and two pools, will open in Havana’s cultural quarter, el Vedado, in January 2025.
Meliá rebrands Be Live Turquesa at the top end of the 13 miles of premier resort Varadero where the beaches are more beautiful.
It reopens as Sol Hicacos Varadero in the first quarter of 2025.
Meliá opens INNSiDE Jagua in coastal Cienfuegos at the end of 2025.
Canada’s Blue Diamond launches some of its all-inclusive hotels under a rebrand: Resonance. Two types of experience and ambience co-exist amid two hotels in one complex: the adults-only Resonance Blu Varadero offers yoga, dietary counselling and outdoor adventures, whereas adults-only Resonance Musique Varadero is centred on nightly live music, DJ parties, themed beach and pool parties.
Meliá Trinidad Península opened in early 2024 and has since added the adult-only The Level and Spa, and Watersports centre.
Top Experiences
City Tour in Havana: Classic American convertible cars- including a bubble gum pink Chevvy 54 Belair and a gold and cream 1956 Buick special – are highlights on a tour of Cuba’s capital.
Jíbaro street food tour: An excellent front-row seat on where Cubans buy food, what they eat, and how they find it by the team behind this great Havana hole-in-the-wall diner.
Cubanía Street Art Tour: Bike the streets of Havana on an insightful guided street art and street mural tour taking in three districts of the city.
The Viñales Experience: Ride a horse out into the valley from the town of Viñales surrounded by limestone mountain scenery and the tobacco fields. Meet farmers to learn about tobacco growing and cigar-making.
A Farmer’s Life Tour: In the Sierra Mountains, taste the local coffee, honey and sugarcane juice and tuck into a lunch of roast pork or freshly caught lake fish.
Where to book it
SIMPLY CUBA
Travel from Havana to Viñales Valley and on to Trinidad with its live music and culture scene before spending five nights on Varadero beach. Prices start from £1,799pp for 14 nights, including B&B in Hotel Mystique Regis Habana, two B&Bs and an all-inclusive stay at Blau Varadero, luggage, tourist card, private transfers and rep service. Simplycuba.co.uk
