When you think of a classic Californian road trip Route 66 probably springs to mind. The USA’s iconic road celebrates its 100th birthday this year with visitors arriving in search of vintage Americana, classic motel stays and life on the open road.
But I’m taking the lesser-known route from San Francisco to South Lake Tahoe to experience the Suisun Valley, a region currently producing some of the best wines in America, Sacremento’s progressive field to fork movement and skiing on South Lake Tahoe’s iconic slopes.
California is the USA’s third largest state after Alaska and Texas. Immortalised in movies, TV shows and advertising campaigns the world over, The Golden State offers boundless opportunities for visitors – and a road trip is the perfect way to discover it.
Wind through wine country
Our first stop was Fairfield, a charming region surrounded by the ethereal hills of Solano County. Probably most famous for producing Jelly Belly jelly beans, it’s also making quite a name for itself in the wine world.
Sonoma and Napa have historically garnered all the attention but just 15 miles away in Fairfield’s Suisun Valley there’s a thriving agritourism scene made up of family-owned vineyards, tasting rooms and small-scale farms.
Recently named the USA’s number one wine region, there’s plenty of vineyards to sample in Suisun. Designed by the same architects behind the Apple Stores, arriving at Caymus-Suisun is like arriving at your cool best friend’s house.
Unlike any other vineyard tasting room I’ve visited, the low-slung glass pavilion, concrete walls and cantilevered roof create a feeling of space, envelop you in the landscape and make you want to linger all day long. Owned by the Wagner family and known for producing some of the best Cabernet Sauvignons, we enjoyed a relaxed tasting paired with grazing plates and vineyard walks.
Next door, 360 Wellness cleverly mixes wine, food and wellness among the vines, with a varied programme of fitness classes. An early morning yoga class in the studio overlooking the vineyards was the ideal way to start our day, followed by brunch in the pleasant outdoor courtyard.
There’s live music in the summer and plans to build accommodation for guests who want to extend their stay. Verzner Family Vineyard offers more of a classic tasting experience in its intimate tasting room.
In the market for fine foods
Back on the road to Sacramento, we were keen to uncover the city’s diverse food scene and renowned Farm to Fork movement. Sacramento is surrounded by 1.5 million acres of farms that grow over 160 varieties of crops. This has led to dozens of hyper-local farmers’ markets popping up where growers and producers come to sell direct to the public.
Visiting the Downtown Farmer’s Market gave us a chance to meet the locals and hear the stories behind the food. Restaurant visits were varied with reservations at London-inspired eatery Camden Spit and Larder headed up by British chef Oliver Ridgeway, Little Saigon’s Quán Nem Ninh Hòa and Michelin-listed Cannon, where we ate perfectly executed small plates created by chef Brad Cecchi.
By some stroke of luck, we arrived in Sacramento on the day of Mardi Gras. Enthusiastic locals lined the streets cheering on carnival floats adorned with giant trees, marching bands, flashing neon cuttlefish and art cars from Burning Man.
Winding through Old Sacramento, it was the perfect way to see the Gold Rush–era district at its best. It’s worth spending some time at the superbly curated Crocker Art Museum, the California State Railroad Museum is one for history buffs and if vintage shopping, record stores and coffee culture is more your thing head to R Street Corridor.
Sloping off to ski
Skiing probably isn’t the first thing that comes to mind when you think of California but at South Lake Tahoe, there are endless opportunities to ski in the Sierra Nevada, the towering mountain range that surrounds Lake Tahoe. Rising over 10,000 feet, this was such a unique experience.
Heavenly ski resort covers 4,800 acres and was like no other resort I’ve ever skied in, with wide open slopes, untouched powder, quiet tree-lined runs and the chance to ski in California and Nevada on the same day.
The majestic lake views are unmatched and as you ski into Nevada the vast desert stretches out in front of you. Sierra-at-Tahoe is a much smaller resort that’s perfect for beginners with a more local feel.
At 22 miles long and the tenth deepest lake in the world, summer stays on the lake are equally idyllic with biking and walking – there are over 50 miles of scenic biking and walking paths around the lake – spectacular hiking, water sports, wellness and hidden beaches to explore along the lake’s edge.
There’s a huge choice of iconic American diners, restaurants, cafes and bars, many of them housed in charming wooden lodges facing the lake or in the streets surrounding it. The Lake Link is a rideshare micro-transit service offering on-demand rides around the lake for free.
At the California-Nevada state line, Nevada’s more relaxed stance on gambling has turned this area into a gaming hotspot, making it feel like a mini Las Vegas. Save some time to explore South Lake Tahoe’s casinos and bars after dark when it really comes to life.
But the best way to understand the scale and history of Lake Tahoe is with a sunset cruise with Tahoe Cruises. We took to the water fuelled by fizzy wine delivered to us by our affable onboard hostess.
Gliding into Emerald Bay as the sun set over the Sierra Nevada delighting in the abandoned Vikingsholm Castle, once home to a wealthy Chicago widow, I vowed to return with my family to share the delights of this iconic American road trip.
Book it
North America Travel Service offers a 14-night California fly-drive itinerary focusing on the scenic beauty of Northern California, including San Francisco and Lake Tahoe. Prices start from £2,999pp and include return flights, accommodation, and car hire.
