I’m standing by Fossil Rock, a large limestone outcrop rising dramatically over expansive sand dunes in the vast Empty Quarter, the world’s largest desert, spanning four countries, including the United Arab Emirates. Fossil Rock is found between two other prominent geological features, Jebel Mleiha and Camel Rock.
We throw water on a section of rock, which helps highlight a surprisingly large number of marine fossils like ammonites and shells embedded on the surface.
Exploring Sharjah’s rich history
The desert here was underwater around 70 million years ago, during the Cretaceous period, when the Arabian Peninsula was submerged by the Tethys Sea. Visible from more than 25 kilometres away, Fossil Rock is located near Mleiha, an hour’s drive from Sharjah city.
Nearby, Mleiha Archaeological Centre provides further insight into this region rich with archaeological finds. The Centre offers guided treks, and you can go dune bashing on the shifting sands, stargaze under the night sky, and stay at a desert camp.
Touring this wilderness is a welcomed contrast to the full-on excesses of Dubai, a short drive away. Sharjah, the third-biggest emirate, has a quieter pace and offers a more traditional, family-friendly atmosphere, focusing on heritage and cultural activities.
It also serves as a good detox destination, being the only emirate without alcohol (although you can nip over to nearby Dubai and Ajman if you get thirsty). Its hotels and restaurants are significantly cheaper than Dubai’s too.
We head for Sharjah city, to the Heart of Sharjah, a cultural heritage project that has been restoring the old town, once the hub of Sharjah’s merchant trade, to its 1950s state. After an exquisite spread of Emirati dishes such as Thareed stew, spiced rice Machboos, humous, and Chabab bread at the luxurious Chedi Al Bait hotel, which has been built around four historic houses, we explore some of the 70 or so shops nearby selling antiques, snacks, souvenirs and more.
It’s a tranquil spot, and when I am here there are virtually no tourists around. Unlike Dubai, there are no high-rise buildings to see at all. Enjoying an Arabic tea, black tea infused with cardamom, we also sample a variant, Karak chai, a rich and creamy tea with milk, sugar and aromatic spices.
There’s a laidback atmosphere and the delicious scent of burning frankincense in the air, and it’s fascinating to people-watch here, such as two old men in deep discussion, one fidgeting with his ‘worry beads’ to alleviate stress or boredom. In a cafe, two youths enthusiastically devour a rice and meat dish with their hands.
A visit to Sharjah Mosque is memorable, not least due to its huge size. Opening in 2019 after five years of construction, it has a capacity for more than 25,000 worshippers. It is great to escape the heat outside for its cool, air-conditioned interior, though I worry about the electricity bill to run it. Its design resembles Ottoman-style Islamic architecture, and there are plenty of intricate details, including more than 100 stained-glass windows. Dominated by two tall minarets decorated in blue, there are solid columns in white marble stone, arches with gold and red detail, and a huge chandelier in the centre.
Our guide, Ali, tells us a little about his life, which unearths ways Sharjah differs from the UK. For example, extended family has considerably more prominence in the UAE.
“I live with my parents, three sisters, brother and his wife and children,” Ali says. “It’s common for parents, children, grandparents and maybe in-laws to live together here.”
The next day we leave the city to visit Al Dhaid fort, built in 1820. With its displays including a kitchen, weapons of old such as swords, daggers, armour, firearms and stone arrows dating from 4 BC, and items the Sheikh would have used when staying at the fort, all take us back in time.
Festivals, music and art
Being a cultural beacon of the UAE, Sharjah has a number of festivals and other cultural events throughout the year, most prominently the Sharjah Light Festival, which showcases visual presentations inspired by science, creativity and knowledge. The largest of its kind in the Middle East and attracting more than half a million visitors, the city’s landmarks are illuminated, with light and sound installations projecting incredible images and animations on the facades of buildings.
My visit coincides with the Tanweer Festival, located in the heart of Mleiha National Park and bringing together music, art installations, poetry and artisan craftmanship to showcase Emirati culture to the world. As well as exploring everything from calligraphy, weaving and coffee workshops to bold and colourful artworks, we are treated to music performances including folk songs, a circle of men chanting verses, a variety of world music and much more.
Wandering a ghost village
I was thinking that there would not be much to see visiting the Al Mudam Buried Village, a 1970s public housing project which was subsequently abandoned and which is now being consumed by sand. Built for oil workers and members of a Bedouin tribe that until then had led a semi-nomadic existence, it is actually very interesting walking through this silent ghost town in the middle of the desert. As well as an ideal place for reflection, it provides a great backdrop for some striking photography.
Sharjah is a great contrast to Dubai and hints at the huge diversity in the Middle East, for those who may assume it is mainly skyscrapers and bling. An added bonus is that this completely different emirate is just 40 minutes from Dubai Airport.
Book it
Sharjah’s size makes it ideal for a multi-destination holiday combined with Dubai, but it also works as a standalone trip. Audley Holidays offers bespoke, tailor-made itineraries with pricing available on request.
