The hotel
Sitting on an unassuming bend in the meandering road that runs alongside the soaring cliffs of the Amalfi coastline, the Santa Catarina Hotel is emblematic of the mood of one of Europe’s most resplendent Unesco heritage sites.
Located on the gateway to one of Italy’s most beloved region’s, the hotel is located atop– and part embedded into – a shelf of cliff just minutes before you reach the town of Amalfi.
Its prime positioning promises easy access to the region’s beating heart, with its boutiques selling authentic ceramics and opulent silks; independent art galleries and narrow, cobbled streets which evoke the nostalgia of times past.
First impressions
Emanating old Hollywood glamour, Santa Caterina’s cream facade curves with the landscape. White flowers bloom against the dramatic black outlines of its windows, and the branches of lemon trees intertwine in its doorway, beckoning towards something which immediately feels rather special.
Stepping into the hotel itself, the space can be described less as a ‘lobby’ and more like a series of interconnecting parlours where an Italian contessa might entertain distinguished guests.
Hand painted floor tiles are imbued with striking floral patterns, complimented by tall glass vases hosting dazzling bunches of colourful blooms, contrasting artfully with the dark wood bureaus on which they are positioned. Decorative plates, watercolour paintings and statuettes that wouldn’t be out of place at the Trevi Fountain, help set the scene.
The lobby and bar area give way to a terrace overhanging the cliffs, reminiscent of something from a black and white movie, beyond which the distant coastlines and rolling ocean unfold like a film.
A welcome aperol in hand, I lean forward for a closer inspection of what lies beneath. There is nothing between me and the ocean below, except for an expanse of cloudless sky.
The room
Stepping into my airy room, elegant meets understated in the cool colour palette and minimalist design.
As with the communal areas of the hotel, the decor is a mix of high-quality, locally-inspired items such as traditional wood and bright blue ceramic teacups, coupled with bright white upholstery.
In short, Santa Caterina has created a world of compliments and contrasts. From the incredible signature tiles, whose swirling black and white patterns evoke the frothing waves of the sea beyond my balconette, to the soft yellow lights that emanate from the tasteful lamps dotted around the room, and the shocking purple hue of a single orchid.
Every minute detail, from the translucent drapes which adorn my headboard, to the glossy marble finish in the bathroom, seem handpicked to evoke the best of classic Italian chic.
There are a few special touches too to make me feel at home, including a top of the range coffee machine, range of Bulgari bathroom products (also in the signature white) and a thoughtfully-curated selection of local pastries and sweet treats to welcome my arrival.
My balcony is as equally gravity-defying as the one adjoining the main areas, giving me uninterrupted and unparalleled Mediterranean views from my own private enclave, perched high above the endless blue below.
The facilities
Santa Caterina offers itself up primarily as a space for rest, relaxation and respite from the bustle beyond it. The spaces are intimate and inviting, without sacrificing luxury or style.
A lift shoots guests down many metres below to its al fresco (but covered) Restaurant Al Mare. A celebration of local gastronomy, its standout dish is the lemon spaghetti, made with local “Amalfi gold’. One plate simply isn’t enough.
Herb and cheese-crusted fillet-mignon join a boozy tiramisu, washed down with limoncello, to create the ultimate Italian dining experience. During the evenings, guitar music and song make the dining experience even finer.
Even further down, at sea level, the property’s beach club is somewhere Audrey Hepburn or Humphrey Bogart would have felt right at home. Built into the landscape, it emanates a retro glam with its sun-bleached loungers and winding staircases which navigate the cliffs and rocks. Guests can live la dolce vita lounging by the pool or navigate one of the conveniently positioned ladders to dip in the sea.
Heading back up into the dizzying heights atop the cliffs, recently opened is new rooftop restaurant Senzafine which comes with panoramic views of the Amalfi Bay and surrounding environs. Senzafine – which translates to “endless” – serves up a Mediterranean grill alongside a sushi bar.
Although it’s difficult to pick a crowning jewel, Michelin-starred restaurant Glicine is a clear frontrunner for me. I recommend beginning with one of the hotel’s specialty cocktails on the balcony to prepare your palette for an exceptional treat.
Although the menu changes with the seasons, guaranteed is a selection of oven-warm breads served with creamy butter topped with optional lemon shavings and rosemary sprigs– a strong start.
I follow this up with beetroot carpaccio topped with glistening caviar and edible flowers; fresh spaghetti in a tomato sauce which is simple but utterly delicious, and finish with three flavours of the creamiest melt-in-the-mouth ice cream on a bed of crumbled biscotti.
In case my recommendation isn’t quite enough, nearby tables are populated with apparent food influencers and clientele who are clearly able to afford the best of the best.
The verdict
Classic, timeless and with a sense of privacy that was good enough for Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton (legend says their affair began here), Santa Caterina offers exclusivity, luxury and, most importantly, an elevated level of cuisine that Italy is famed for.
Book it
Rooms at Hotel Santa Caterina start from €454 + VAT (approx. £388) per night, based on double occupancy.
