I watch in awe as groups of dancers shimmy and shake their way down the street, adorned with feathered headdresses and sparkling costumes that would humble a peacock.
Every movement works in harmony with the beat of the music, creating a scene that is so loud and vibrant that your body instinctively starts moving. A foot tap here, a sway there until you are practically samba-ing down the street.
I have travelled to Rio specifically for Carnival on three occasions, each time returning more glitter-bedecked having taken my style cues from the Cariocas (Rio locals). Dressing up is part of the fun in outfits that are colourful, bold and breezy to cope with the summer heat – and this time it is no different.
Carnival is an age-old religious celebration marking the days leading up to Lent and happens to be one of the world’s largest street parties with over 500 blocos (local bands) performing across the city. I can only describe it as a firework-filled Halloween meets Glastonbury occasion that embodies the spirit of Brazil.
However, the riotous blend of music, dance and spectacle of today would seem alien to its early practitioners.
Some attendees substitute water for caipirinha cocktails and carouse from dusk till dawn for eight days straight. Those seeking a more traditional experience head to the Sambódromo for breathtaking performances by samba schools, a Carnival tradition since 1984.
I watch the merriment unfold in Rio with music spilling out of bars and partygoers laughing on street corners and retreat to its storybook vistas when I need some quiet amongst the chaos.
I have enjoyed various stints living in South America’s largest country but nowhere has my heart like Rio de Janeiro.
Captivating culture
With colourful festivals and beaches — Copacabana, Flamengo, Arpoador and the iconic Ipanema — as melodically pleasing as bossa nova songs, Rio de Janeiro is a natural starting point for newcomers to Brazil. The city has a magic that is at once inexplicable and irreplaceable with striking good looks that are practically unfair to all other metropolises.
The Rio Carnival is enjoying a surge in popularity, a point picked up on by Kuoni which ranked The “carioca” party third in its 10 “World’s Must-See Travel Experiences”, just behind the Venice Carnival, in Italy, and ahead of the Day of the Dead celebration in Mexico.
“Carnival is one of the best-known expressions of Brazilian popular culture on the planet. It is an incredible party that combines history, religiosity, music, destinations, gastronomy and manages to represent the best of what we have as a country: our joy and our diversity,” commented Marcelo Freixo, President of Embratur, Brazil’s tourist office.
Beyond the festivities, Brazil has plenty to offer visitors seeking an adventure filled with Latin American charm.
“Brazil is one of those fascinating places in the world where you can one day immerse yourself in vibrant, urban culture in cities and the next be among some of nature’s most diverse ecosystems,” says Lee Thompson, the co-founder of Flash Pack, a boutique group travel specialist.
Thompson heralds the destination’s versatility as a place where clients with varied interests can go waterfall hopping in 4x4s, have sunrise canoe rides and also get their dose of the wild.
“It’s chockfull of adventure,” he adds.
According to UNEP, Brazil holds as much as 20% of the world’s biological diversity, making it a hotspot for nature lovers.
“Brazil is an extraordinary destination for wildlife enthusiasts in 2024, offering unparalleled opportunities to observe diverse fauna in its natural habitats,” says Mikael Castro, Country Manager for Brazil at Abercrombie & Kent.
“This year, the Pantanal has become particularly popular, attracting visitors eager to spot jaguars in the wild.
“Additionally, the coastal regions of Rio de Janeiro and Salvador are drawing many new guests interested in witnessing the majestic humpback whales as they migrate along the coast,” he expands.
Brazil as a brand is a dream product as travellers can quite literally have it all in varied climates. This is encapsulated by the new national tourism slogan: “Visit Brazil, You Have Everything to Gain.”
According to Jonas Queirós at Riotur, Brazil presents countless reasons to be a must-visit destination.
“You can come to Brazil to have the best experience of your life on a trip combining natural beauty, culinary delights, unique experiences, sustainable tourism initiatives, iconic landmarks, rich cultural heritage, lively cities and events like Carnival,” he asserts.
These themes were echoed in recent research by Embratur, the Brazilian Agency for International Tourism Promotion which found that culture, weather and beaches, in that order, are the three most sought after segments by British tourists when visiting Brazil, with the most popular destinations being Rio de Janeiro, São Paulo, Foz do Iguaçu and Amazonas.
What’s new
Afrotourism: Afrotourism is high on the agenda of Embratur. A new initiative called Rolê Afro launched in May 2024 in Bahia’s capital Salvador to support black businesses and heritage travel.
More flights: Beginning in October 2024, British Airways is set to boost the number of its weekly flights connecting London Heathrow with São Paulo Guarulhos International Airport to 10, up from the current daily service. Additionally, the airline will enhance its service between London Heathrow (LHR) and Rio de Janeiro (GIG) by 22% compared to the schedule it operated in 2023.
A stylish hotel arrival: Soho House São Paolo has become the brand’s first property in Brazil. A design lover’s dream, it is located in Cidade Matarazzo, a former hospital complex that also includes Rosewood São Paulo.
Soho House São Paolo occupies what was the maternity ward with 32 rooms all adorned with Brazilian art.
A new UNESCO marvel: At the 46th UNESCO World Heritage Committee session in New Delhi, Lençóis Maranhenses National Park in Maranhão was designated a Natural World Heritage Site. Spanning 155,000 hectares, it is larger than São Paulo and showcases South America’s largest sand dunes and seasonal crystal-clear lagoons.
Top Experiences
Eat the best: Travellers in Rio de Janeiro have the opportunity to experience the “37th best restaurant in the world”. Oteque in the Botafogo neighbourhood re-entered the esteemed list of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, tempting diners with fusion seafood dishes and raw Brazil nut ice cream. oteque.com
Neon mushrooms: Meet the world’s highest concentration of glowing mushrooms in the Atlantic Forest, roughly three hours outside São Paolo. Visit this lesser-known rainforest and hunt for the neon fungi alongside the IPBIo’s Biodiversity Research Center. ipbio.org.br/en/visite-a-reserva
Explore historic Pelourinho: Salvador’s Pelourinho district is the city’s cultural hub, with attractions like the Igreja de São Francisco, art galleries and street food. Call at Bella Oyá boutique on Rua Maciel de Baixo, where sprightly stylist and cultural historian Regina Navarro offers African fabric garments and insights into Afro-Brazilian culture. reginanavarrobellaoya.com.br
Learn to samba: The best Brazilian souvenir might just be picking up samba skills learned from one of the various studios in Rio de Janeiro. The classes taught by 20-year veteran Carla Campos at Samba Fit in Ipanema are particularly enjoyable. studiosambafit.com.br
Where to book it
A&K TRAVEL GROUP
Abercrombie & Kent’s Classic Brazil itinerary starts at £6,360 for nine days. It takes in the iconic landmarks of Rio, the might of Iguaçu Falls, Brasilia, and Salvador de Bahia, with luxury accommodation. abercrombiekent.co.uk
