It’s a calm, golden day on Western Australia’s Ningaloo Reef, as I secure my flippers and snorkel and slip from the catamaran into the crystalline turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean. A protected UNESCO World Heritage site, Ningaloo is the continent’s largest fringing reef, stretching along its western shores, bordered by dazzling white beaches and the rugged arid landscapes of Cape Range National Park.
A paradise for wildlife lovers, Ningaloo has been the traditional home of the Baiyungu, Thalanyji and Yinigurdira people for at least 30,000 years, and long swathes of the coast remain wonderfully untouched; a sanctuary for some of the country’s iconic native animals, including kangaroos, emus,
echidnas and rock wallabies.
There are wild wonders beneath the waves, too: coral gardens roamed by turtles, dugongs, dolphins and rays, and plankton-rich waters plied by humpback whales and the biggest fish in the sea: the whale shark.
Each year from March to August, Ningaloo becomes a mecca for these gentle marine giants which come here to feed, and Exmouth Dive and Whale Sharks offer responsibly-run small-group tours to enter the sharks’ watery realm, with expert guides to maintain strict “notouch” rules, and a photographer to allow guests to focus solely on the here and now with these gentle giants.
Waiting quietly in the water, I dip below the surface and watch as a 10-metre-long whale shark emerges from the blue. With 25-metre visibility that allows me to see every unique pattern, daubed like Aboriginal dot art rippling along its back, the shark swims languidly by, oblivious to the awe its
inspired, and I swim at a respectful distance alongside, absorbing every privileged, peaceful second spent with this most magical of marine marvels, until it dives into the deep.
Where the wild things are
Interactions with any animal can be transformative, but seeing wildlife in its natural habitat – and on its own terms – is uniquely thrilling, and the ethical choice for conscious travellers, too. Travel agents and operators have a crucial part to play in recommending kinder alternatives to captive animal experiences and exploitative shows, and with exciting encounters on offer in every state Australia is the perfect destination for a totally wild adventure.
“Some of the most popular bucket-list encounters include taking a cruise to see saltwater crocodiles in Kakadu National Park or on the Daintree River in Far North Queensland; snorkelling the Great Barrier Reef to see green turtles and clownfish; spotting kangaroos on Kangaroo Island; snorkelling with Australian sea lions outside of Perth or the Eyre Peninsula; seeking out the Tasmanian Devil in Tasmania; and spotting koalas in the south-east,” says John Daw, Executive
Officer at Australian Wildlife Journeys, a collective of tour operators specialising in ethical wildlife experiences.
Like many countries, Australia’s wildlife is being impacted by the effects of climate change, habitat loss and unsustainable methods of food production, but visitors can help to drive positive change.
“Responsible tourism plays a key role in protecting wildlife habitats across Australia, providing economic value to areas that are under pressure to be developed for housing, mining or
other commercial ventures resulting in habitat loss or degradation,” says Daw.
Suzana Bishop, Chief Executive Officer for the Northern Territory’s Department of Tourism and Hospitality, says Australia’s tourism stakeholders are committed to developing sustainable practices.
“By educating tourists and encouraging them to engage more responsibly, we can preserve natural habitats and behaviours for a more authentic experience. Together, we can
reduce environmental impact, protect ecosystems and support the recovery of vulnerable species by taking a much more considered and responsible approach to wildlife tourism.”
What’s New
Resorts: Raes on Wategos has opened a second coastal boutique property in Byron Bay, New South Wales, featuring 10 suites and two pools set in tropical landscaped gardens. The region offers
wildlife tours to see koalas and platypus, plus dolphins offshore. raes.com.au
Rare Earth Retreats now offers luxury, sustainable off-grid accommodation in South Australia’s celebrated wine region, McLaren Vale. The retreat neighbours Onkaparinga River National Park, home to koalas, kangaroos and possums. rareearthretreats.com.au
With a range of accommodation from camping to beachfront villas, Queensland’s new nature resort, Turtle Sands, adheres to the Turtle Protection Promise and offers nesting and hatching tours, plus snorkel trips on the Southern Great Barrier Reef. turtlesands.com.au
South Australia’s inaugural private island Luxury Eco Resort, Rumi on Louth, will open off the coast of the Eyre Peninsula in 2025. Guests will enjoy experiences including catamaran cruises, wildlife and ecology buggy tours, kayak expeditions and beach picnics. rumionlouth.com.au
Tours: Great Southern Outback Tours has released a new eight-day Wheatbelt Down Under Bremer Canyon tour in Western Australia, including a marine expedition with Naturalist Charters to observe wild orcas, with departures scheduled for February and March 2025. greatsouthernoutback.com.au
Initiatives: Tourism Tropical North Queensland has launched ‘Guardian of the Reef’, a platform for reef-positive travel choices. Conservation curious travellers can visit the newly launched website and work through a series of short educational videos and facts, each with a coupon reward system to use with bookings on the Great Barrier Reef. Participants then go in the draw to win a trip to the Great Barrier Reef and unlock exclusive experiences. tourism. tropicalnorthqueensland.org.au
Top Wildlife Experiences
Whale safari: Journey Beyond’s Sal Salis Ningaloo Reef is a safari-style ecoretreat near Cape Range National Park in Western Australia. Overlooking the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Ningaloo
Reef, the retreat offers a variety of outdoor adventures including gorge walks, star gazing, kayaking, snorkelling with dugongs and turtles and boat tours to responsibly swim with whale sharks and humpback whales in the Indian Ocean. salsalis.com.au
Koala quest: Chocolate Gannets Beachfront Luxury Villas is a collection of four secluded luxury self-catering villas in Apollo Bay on the iconic Great Ocean Road in Victoria. Watch out for dolphins, whales and seals, or walk the nearby Koala Track. Exclusive for villa guests, the track is part of a revegetation project, providing an opportunity to spot wild koalas in their native habitat. chocolategannets.com.au
Penguin picnic: The only place in the world where visitors can sleep within an island seabird colony, Picnic Island in Tasmania is adjacent to Freycinet National Park and a stone’s throw from one of the world’s best beaches, Wineglass Bay. The private island’s 10 guests can immerse themselves in
nature by day and watch penguins and shearwaters returning to their burrows at night. picnicisland.com.au
Rainforest and reef: With two UNESCO World Heritage-listed wonders on the doorstep – the Daintree Rainforest and the Great Barrier Reef – Queensland’s Thala Beach Nature Reserve in Port Douglas is a certified eco-retreat and a member of National Geographic Unique Lodges of the World. Guests can enjoy wildlife walks with expert guides, stargazing, a Coconut Odyssey tour and snorkelling on the reef. thalabeach.com.au
Wild swimming: Snorkel with a pod of wild oceanic common dolphins on a cruise with Dolphin Swim Australia in Port Stephens, known as the ‘Dolphin Capital of Australia’. This accredited experience allows small guided groups to swim with dolphins responsibly in their natural habitat, just 2.5 hours from Sydney, New South Wales. The tour includes a champagne brunch and a
customised video of the experience. dolphinswimaustralia.com.au
Turtle tour: Join a Turtle Tracks boat tour with Sea Darwin-Sea Tiwi from Darwin to remote Njulbitjlk (Bare Sand Island) in the Northern Territory. Sailing from Darwin Harbour, cross the Timor Sea and explore the island’s beach with marine experts to watch flatback and Olive Ridley turtles nesting and
see hatchlings heading into the sea. The experience includes dinner and a complimentary drink. seadarwin.com
Where to book it
Audley Travel’s 20-day tailor-made Wine & Wildlife – Australia’s Ultimate Safari costs from £10,755pp, with stays on Kangaroo Island, Rottnest Island and Ningaloo Reef, a tour of Flinders Chase National Park and visits to Adelaide, Perth and Margaret River. Includes flights, transfers, car hire, accommodation and wildlife excursions. audleytravel.com
