Buda on the west; Pest on the east. Between them, like a spine, runs the mighty Danube, a clear demarcation between the cobbled streets, hills and medieval, Renaissance and Baroque architecture that define Buda, and lively Pest, known for its nightlife, its neo-Gothic domed Parliament building, and its famous neo-Baroque Széchenyi Baths.
Over the last few decades, Hungary’s capital has emerged as one of the best all-season cities in Europe. During spring and summer, its parks, riverbanks, pop-up bars and festivals entice visitors with endless opportunities for enjoyment, from al-fresco picnics and outdoor concerts to water-skiing, canoeing and swimming.
Favourite spots for locals include Roman Beach, the only free natural swimming spot in the capital, and ELTE Füvészkert, Hungary’s oldest Botanical Garden, which is positively packed with rare plant species.
Winter wonders
As the days shorten and the temperature drops the city presents fresh appeal.
Autumn and winter in Budapest have a magic of their own, delivering scenery and activities that provide the perfect setting for a Hollywood film, particularly once the Christmas markets and ice-rinks open.
This is the time for exploring on foot, stopping for a cup of coffee or hot chocolate at one of the 19th-century cafés – among the best are New York Café and Gerbeaud – before returning to your sightseeing.
Highly recommended, to the point of being essential, is a visit to the Unesco-listed Buda Castle Quarter. It’s an easy enough walk, but if visitors prefer not to make the journey on foot, several buses also go there from numerous locations throughout the city. The most fun way to arrive, though, is to take the funicular railway. The ride lasts only a couple of minutes but takes in spectacular aerial views of the historic city skyline.
The Buda Castle Quarter, the oldest district in Budapest, takes visitors through nearly 800 years of history, art, culture and religion as well as providing panoramic views of the city. This is where the glorious Matthias Church is, the interior of which is covered with rich ornamental paintings and decorations, and, of course, the Castle and its gardens (also called the Royal Palace), the first incarnation of which dates from the mid 13th-century. It now houses the National Gallery, which contains more than 100,000 works of Hungarian art, from medieval stone carvings to 19th-century paintings.
A full calendar of events, including concerts and theatre productions, runs throughout the year in the Buda Castle Quarter, but Christmas is a highlight, with performances by numerous singers, musicians and poets. For the highest possible culture, however, there is little that can surpass a night of opera or ballet at the Hungarian State Opera House. Even if you’ve no plans to buy tickets, the building alone – a neo-Renaissance beauty designed by Miklós Ybl, one of the country’s leading 19th-century architects – should definitely be seen.
Budapest by tram
Considered one of the most scenic tram journeys in the world – and particularly so in winter, when the Christmas lights line the Danube and catch their reflection in its waters – Budapest’s Tramline No 2 provides a tour of some of the city’s greatest landmarks.
Take a seat and enjoy the sights, which include Széchenyi Lánchíd (otherwise known as the Chain Bridge) which crosses the Danube, connecting Buda and Pest; the more modern Rákóczi Bridge which is further downstream; the Palace of the Arts, and the Hungarian Parliament Building (Országház), a neo-Gothic masterpiece that is home to the country’s parliament.
From the beginning of December to the beginning of January, visitors can also take the Fényvillamos, or Christmas light tram, at no extra cost. Garlanded with five kilometres of energy-efficient LED lights (140,000 of them) the 50-year-old tram trundles through the city, mainly along line No 2, bringing cheer to the frosty winter nights.
And relax
Hungary’s capital is also known as the ‘City of Spas’ on account of the more than 100 thermal springs that gurgle and bubble beneath it, which deliver more than 70 million litres of mineral-rich waters to its world-renowned bathhouses and spas each day.
One of the most spectacular public bathing complexes, not only in Hungary, but indeed in Europe, is Széchenyi Baths. Built between 1909 and 1913, it has 18 indoor and outdoor thermal water pools, as well as saunas, Jacuzzis, a steam room and even medicinal mud therapy. There is little that is more magical than getting into its warm pools on an icy evening and looking up at the sky as snowflakes fall.
Other excellent baths to try include the Rudas, Lukács and Veli Bej Baths while many of the city’s hotels have their own luxury spa experiences. A number of luxury high-end hotels also feature baths or Turkish baths.
Festive frivolities
No continent does Christmas markets as well as Europe, and few countries do them as well as Hungary. From mid-November, the city fills with markets selling quality decorations and gifts and traditional food. The main ones – Vörösmarty Square, one of the oldest in Hungary, and St Stephen’s Basilica – each have more than 150 stalls and are open until late.
Another city highlight at St Stephen’s is the dazzling light show, where festive scenes are projected onto the Basilica’s façade every 30 minutes.
Ice skating rinks pop up throughout the city, but the best, and most famous – known even beyond Hungary – is the lake in City Park. In the summer, this vast expanse of water is filled with boats and paddleboards, but in winter, the ice rink that appears – one of Europe’s oldest and largest – attracts ice-skaters of every age and ability from the world over.
Sitting just beneath fairy-tale-like 19th-century Vajdahunyad Castle, the lake is an exhilarating experience. After that, do as the locals do and treat yourself to a glass of steaming mulled wine.
Hungary is as renowned for its wines as it is or its thermal baths, so if warmed and spiced is not for you then you will have a difficult time choosing between the excellent varieties. Perhaps the most well-known are the honeyed wines from the Tokaj region, in the northeast of the country, which were much-loved by Beethoven, Haydn, Liszt and Voltaire.
Tokaj has built its reputation on dessert wines – the most notable of which is Tokaji Aszú – but it also has many outstanding dry varieties, with many created from fermented grapes.
Over to the reds and Egri Bikavér is the stuff of legends – truly! The name means Bull’s Blood and comes from the Ottoman invasion of 1552 and the siege of Eger Castle, when the invaders mistook the red wine the Hungarians were drinking for blood. There are some excellent wine tours to choose from, including a half-day tour to a family-run vineyard in the Etyek-Buda region, just 30km from Budapest.
Five highlights
Visit Margaret Island: Although referred to as an island, this landmass is really a floating park in the Danube and is a beautiful place to visit. To get to it, cross the Margaret Bridge on foot and then spend the day discovering its treasures, which include a Japanese garden, the Unesco-listed Music Fountain, and Palatinus water park, the largest open-air swimming complex in Budapest.
See Budapest from the water: There are cruises along the Danube for everyone, from day-trippers to night-owls to diners to beer-lovers. Take your pick, and sit back seeing the magic of Budapest from water-level.
Take in Unesco marvels: Dotted with Unesco sites, Budapest excels when it comes to landmarks with historical and cultural significance. A stroll through the Buda Castle Quarter rewards vistors with sightseeing around the Buda Castle complex, Matthias Church and the iconic Fisherman’s Bastion. Other notable attractions are the Hungarian National Gallery, the Budapest History Museum, the Labyrinth cave system, and the elegant Sándor Palace.
Eat only the finest cuisine: The city is distinguishing itself as a hotspot for Michelin-starrred dining, with several restaurants which have earned the coveted accolade. Be tempted by Babel, Borkonyha Winekitchen, Essência, Salt, Rumour by Jenő Rácz, Stand, and Costes, many of which focus on innovative interpretations of traditional Hungarian cuisine.
Discover architectural greats: Budapest showcases a staggering array of architecture styles, including Baroque, Classicism, Romanticism, Historicism, Art Nouveau, Modernism, Neo-Gothic and Bauhaus.
Famous avenue Andrássy út is lined with both beautiful Art Noveau buildings and designer shops, so vistors can combine culture with shopping combined. It’s an interesting walk that passes the Hungarian State Opera House, an example of neo-Renaissance style fused with elements of Baroque.
Those interested in ticking off spotting different sytles of architecture in a single city, should not hesitate to visit.
