The train is clattering through Uzbekistan’s Kyzyl Kum Desert, the windows not quite closing, and everything and everyone is covered in a thin layer of dust. Instead of sitting on a seat, I am reclining on a bunk bed, with another one above me, with a similar layout in all the other compartments along the carriages.
There are Uzbek families having picnics, preparing tea, chatting, snoring, arguing and laughing. Further down, I spot a chicken, and even further along, there is the ‘First Class’ compartment for tourists who, incidentally, look just as dusty as I do.
An old woman with a mouthful of gold teeth talks to me excitedly – I have no idea what about – but she seems happy with my responses and keeps pointing at the landscape, maybe either telling me the history of the ancient Silk Road or just pointing out that it is too hot and dusty out there. Either way, her wide smile and enthusiasm are infectious.
The train ambles through the historic cities of Khiva and Bukhara, both main trading centres along the early route that connected Europe with China, with goods passing in either direction.
I had decided to travel through Uzbekistan mostly by train, to experience situations just like this: picnics, chickens, and long, one-sided conversations on a train with nary another tourist in sight, and a grand countryside rolling past outside. This is so much more fun – and faster – than queuing at a gleaming airport with nothing to see.
Trains are making a connection
Rail journeys have enjoyed a renaissance in recent years, with many old routes and especially overnight services having been reintroduced. Much of this can be put down to a rising demand for more sustainable travel, but in some destinations, such as Uzbekistan, it offers the chance to add a layer of perhaps what is an overused cliché – ‘authenticity’ – that simply does not exist when flying.
In Europe some countries, such as France, have now banned short-haul flights if a rail connection exists offering the same route within 2.5 hours or less, with others, such as Spain, thinking of doing the same.
France is not only the world’s most popular country to visit, but also a great rail-travel destination. Kylie Anderson Commercial Executive at Inntravel.co.uk agrees: “France is by far our biggest seller by rail because it’s the quickest to reach and has one of the most reliable and punctual rail systems in Europe.”
She adds: “Our customers are (also) choosing to take advantage of frequent reliable connections between Paris and Zurich, with an overnight stay before taking a scenic journey down to Milan where you can connect to high speed services throughout Italy.
“Zurich has become an important rail hub for our customers heading to the South Tyrol and Austria.”
Travelling by train wins over flying in so many ways, not only can you turn up at the last minute and hop on without having to jump through hoops such as check-in, immigration and security checkpoints, only to have to do it all again in reverse upon landing, but also train stations often sit right in the centre of a city, making hotel transfers comparatively easy.
Looking out of the window, being able to stretch your legs, spending time in the restaurant car and meeting fellow passengers are all huge bonuses.
And with plenty of sleeper and hotel trains having popped up across Europe, train travel is no longer just a means of transport, but a journey in itself.
What’s New
Connecting the Baltic Capitals: With some of western Europe kicking back against overtourism, looking east to the Baltic states of Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia could be the way to go. With a new link connecting Vilnius and Riga, and an already planned third connection to Tallinn, accessing the region is becoming easier.
London to Prague overnight: Training it from London to Brussels via Eurostar, and then taking the overnight connection to Prague, elevates the sustainable journey into an adventure without the need to catch a flight.
Paris to Berlin: In just over 13 hours, overnight, and with tickets starting from £25, travelling across Europe on the recently revived overnight train connecting France’s and Germany’ s capital cities is easier than ever. This route will up its trains to daily connections from late 2024.
Riding through the desert: Etihad Rail, the latest railway endeavour in the UAE, connecting the emirates with Saudi Arabia and Oman, marked its first passenger route earlier this year, with regular services to commence soon.
Travelling the Silk Road: At the end of 2023, the development of a luxury train through Uzbekistan was announced. When it opens in 2026, it will connect the three most important Silk Road cities of Khiva, Bukhara, and Samarkand. In style.
Top train journeys
Italy in style: Can’t get a ticket on the traditional Orient Express route to Istanbul? Another way of enjoying the same service is by shorter, but just as luxurious, two-day connections across Italy on the La Dolce Vita Orient Express. To be launched end of 2024, but reservations are already open.
orient-express.com/la-dolce-vita/
Reaching new heights in Peru: See the dramatic changing landscapes onboard the Titicaca Train from the shores of Lake Titicaca, past villages and grasslands to La Raya – the highest point of the journey. Then it’s on towards Cusco, once capital of the Inca empire, before finishing on a high at one of the wonders of the world, Machu Picchu. titantravel.co.uk
Cook up a storm in Asia: After a delay due to the pandemic, Belmond’s super luxurious Eastern & Oriental Express finally launched its Singapore to Malaysia roundtrip, stopping for excursions in Kuala Lumpur, Penang, and Langkawi, and offers cooking classes of local dishes en route. Belmond.com
Around the world in 77 days: Railbookers has announced an incredible itinerary to see four continents and 10 countries within 11 weeks of riding the rails. Stops include the Canadian Rockies, India’s Taj Mahal, and Kruger National Park, among many others. railbookers.co.uk
Coastal Classic in Alaska: Alaska’s wilderness is put on full display on this scenic ride. Departing Anchorage, the train winds along Turnagain Arm, where the steep mountains of the Chugach Range plunge directly to the sea. The journey continues to the end of Turnagain Arm and veers away from the road system into the backcountry wilderness – and what many consider to be the most scenic stretch of the entire Railbelt. alaskarailroad.com
East to west across the States: Traversing the USA across 12 states and with stops in Chicago, Seattle and San Francisco, the Amtrak Northern Rail Experience is the ultimate opportunity to see the ever-changing landscapes passing by. This nine-day roundtrip, starts and ends in Chicago. amtrakvacations.co.uk
Journey through the heart of Australia: Travel through an entire continent onboard The Ghan as it cuts from Adelaide in Australia’s south to Darwin in the north. Along the way off train experiences explore Marla, Manguri, Coober Pedy, Alice Springs and Katherine. journeybeyondrail.com.au
Where to book it
Titan Travel
Passengers on the eight-day Switzerland’s Spectacular Rail Journeys will board the Bernina Express to climb the Bernina Pass before descending the spiral viaduct at Brusio. Next, hop on the Glacier Express for Alpine views followed by a cruise on Lake Constance. Prices for a September 10, 2025 departure start from £2,395pp including flights, meals and excursions.
titantravel.co.uk
