So far on our rail ‘safari’ we’ve seen pronghorn deer, blue heron, turkey vultures, domestic buffalo and even a young coyote, but none elicit the same level of excitement as the rare sightings of bare bottom ‘salutes’ from the cheeky river rafters.
We’d been warned about this local mooning tradition by our charismatic carriage hosts, Mike and Olivia, so we’re all on the look-out. Each time a backside is flashed, it prompts a cry of delight and a scurry to the window for photographs. One quick-fingered passenger gets a cracking shot (excuse the pun!).
It’s the final leg of our three-day Canyon Spirit adventure and we are making our way along the track from Moab to Denver, criss-crossing the mighty Colorado River so that it’s sometimes on our left but mostly on our right. Luckily, in our glass-domed carriage, where the windows reach right up to sky, you still get the expansive views, no matter which side you sit on.
I’d been nervous about being on a train for so long – six to eight hours each day – but the ever-changing landscapes, the enthusiastic story-telling from the crew, and the almost constant food and drink service means that each day’s 200-mile journey flies by. The unlimited beer, wine, cocktails and bar snacks help too!
The Premier service gives us access to an additional carriage where lounge-style seating encourages guests to mingle, and a dedicated barperson – in our case the flamboyant Leigh – mixes signature cocktails and serves bowls of nuts and olives. Leigh hosts a whiskey tasting session one afternoon too, although I stick to the margaritas.
A sister to the long-established and family-owned Rocky Mountaineer, Canyon Spirit is the new name for the train operating on the Rockies to the Red Rocks route, which launched in 2021 as a two-day trip from Denver to Glenwood Springs then on to Moab, or vice versa. From April 2026, a three-day option is being added to take the train beyond Moab to Utah’s capital, Salt Lake City.
Trains run each year from April until November, giving you the chance to explore America’s wild Southwest in the spring (warm temperatures and colourful wildflowers), summer (hot, dry days and possible sightings of elk and bald eagles) or autumn (crisp evenings and vibrant fall foliage).
The train has seven passenger coaches, each accommodating up to 54 guests in pairs of wide and reclinable seats, all facing forwards, plus the two lounge coaches. Between each passenger carriage is a small car with drop-down windows where you can capture the passing landscapes without glass reflection. These get busy at times so you might have to wait your turn.
Meals on wheels
The aisles are wide enough that you can walk around without worrying about interrupting the food service. Considering it’s prepared in a tiny, moving kitchen, the food is good and doesn’t come in the giant portions you often get served in the U.S. My favourite dish is the poached Baja prawn cobb salad, crispy bacon, avocado, crumbled blue cheese, and buttermilk dill dressing – fresh, light and crunchy – followed by an indulgent bloody orange chocolate pecan tart, butter candied pecans, honey orange caramel, vanilla shortbread and dark chocolate ganache.
Onboard F&B is locally-sourced where possible and is a big part of the hosts’ storytelling. The breakfast menu, for example, includes a warm Utah scone with whipped honey butter while the bar menu features Moonlight EXpresso coffee liqueur, distilled in Carbondale, near Glenwood Springs. Coffee comes from Denver-based coffee house Dazbog Coffee, set up by two brothers who immigrated from Russia.
Mike and Olivia share these local stories, plus snippets of rail history, interesting geological facts and their own personal stories, as the train rolls on by. They tell us about the town of Castle Gate, now a ghost town, where in 1897 Butch Cassidy committed daylight robbery, literally, stealing a $7,000 payroll from a passing train.
As we pass through the Grand Valley wine country, they tell us that the climate and mineral rich soil here supports 30 wineries, one producing one of the Reisling’s we’re served with lunch. They proudly tell us about the Big 10 Curve, an engineering marvel that leads the train up to Denver, the Mile-High City. Their infectious passion and enthusiasm captivates us all.
Pulling out all the stops
This is not a sleeper train so in each destination we stay in a choice of hotels, with transfers from the station included when required. Each morning we leave our bags in our hotel rooms and they are transferred to our next night’s stay.
Our first night is at the Grand America Hotel, Salt Lake City, where rooms are super spacious and there’s time for a dip in its big outdoor pool. In Moab, we’re in the more basic but still comfortable Homewood Suites by Hilton.
In Moab, we take a morning’s bus tour into its famous rock formations. The Arches National Park boasts over 2,000 named arches and gives the Grand Canyon a run for its money. As we tick off the highlights – Balance Rock, The Windows and Delicate Arch Viewpoint – I wish we had more time and make a vow to come back. It’s a feeling I have often as I look out of the train window and see nature’s playground pass by.
I want to return to climb the mountains, picnic on the prairie grasslands, explore the cute little frontier towns and, most of all, raft the mighty Colorado River. It’s definitely one to add to my bucket list, but don’t worry, should the Canyon Spirit pass by, I won’t be flashing my backside.
Book it
Launching April 21, 2026, the Rockies to the Red Rocks Rail Only Canyon Spirit journey, Salt Lake to Denver (or vice versa), costs from £1,599pp, with three days onboard, two nights’ hotel stays, two breakfasts, two lunches, and one dinner.
