“I like to listen to Taylor Swift,” says Fukuyu, a fifth-year Gion-based Maiko – words I did not expect to hear from the kimono-clad white-faced apprentice Geisha.
Reaching the end of our private 45-minute audience and tea ceremony, I have long since exhausted the more appropriate questions about Fukuyu’s training and the Geisha lifestyle, instead leaning into my curiosity. As a teenager, Fukuyu moved from her family to Gion, Kyoto, to dedicate her life to becoming a Geisha. She cites a lifetime-long interest in tradition as reasoning for her dramatic lifestyle choice which includes spending multiple hours getting into the Geisha garb each morning. Yet, in her limited spare time enjoys the same pop culture as most girls her age.
I soon realise that this clash of modernity and tradition is a key part of Japan’s charm. Take Tokyo, for example: The sprawling metropolis is an amalgamation of ultra-modern high-rises and neon lights, juxtaposed with peaceful shrines and ancient culture. It may be one of the world’s biggest and busiest cities, but with so many pockets of peace there are certainly worse places to get lost in.
Tokyo can seem overwhelming at first, so I am grateful to be accompanied by a private guide for my first day. Miki, who works with tour operator InsideJapan, is a Tokyo native that loves to share her home city with visitors from around the world. “I love to share Tokyo,” she explains during a lunchtime pitstop at the Tsukiji fish market in central Tokyo. “It can be crazy, like in the middle of Shibuya, but at the same time places like the Meiji Shrine highlight how Tokyo people keep that tradition of quiet tranquillity.”
I walk two steps behind as we do just that, navigating from the infamously busy Shibuya crossing to the nearby Meiji Jingu Shrine, home to one of Japan’s largest Torii gates. Miki explains how the Shinto religion is rooted in peace and nature, and as we meander through the shrine’s tree-lined walkways, the noise and bustle of city life is soon left behind.
Prime position
Nowadays it seems like Japan is on the top of every traveller’s bucket list. Despite being one of the last countries to reopen to tourists post-pandemic, tourism figures to Japan are soaring, with an estimated 11.6 million visitors travelling to Japan in January-April 2024 alone.
Now is an excellent time to go, too. Contrary to popular belief, Japan is currently a surprisingly affordable destination for UK travellers to visit, due to the current favourable exchange rate for the British pound against the Japanese yen. Capital city Tokyo was recently named the fourth most affordable destinations worldwide in 2024’s Post Office Holiday Money Report.
“2024/25 is the ideal time to visit Japan because the recent increase in interest has led UK travel agencies to expand their tour package offerings to Japan, leading to a wide breadth of itineraries across the country including many lesser-known, regional destinations,” said Yumi Takakubo, Head of Trade Marketing & Partnerships, UK, Ireland & The Netherlands at the Japanese National Tourism Organisation (JNTO). “These agencies are able to tailor trips extensively to individual preferences, including arranging domestic travel and booking activities. The addition of many cruise options that port across Japan also adds further allure.”
Not always a given for a tourist destination is year-round appeal, but here Japan comes up trumps. “Japan’s climate is mostly temperate, with five distinct seasons,” explains Explore‘s Agency Sales Manager, Philippa Baines. “Summer is from June to September with temperatures reaching 30c, although it can vary from warm to very hot after mid-July with temperatures in the mid-30s. July and August can be very hot and humid. Spring and Autumn are mild throughout Japan. Winter, October to April, is cold with snowfall. The main rainy season is June.
“For trips that visit the Snow Monkeys at Jigokudani Onsen, you’re very likely to see them all year around, aside from in October/November when there is enough food in the forest to prevent them coming down to the baths. You may still see some at this time but not in the numbers found during the rest of the year.”
Past the Golden Route
Overtourism has been a hot topic in recent months, especially in high-traffic areas like Kyoto. Excursions such as meeting Geishas are becoming increasingly tricky to secure without the support of an experienced tour company like InsideJapan, who rely on long-standing contacts to facilitate the meetings. Throughout the historic Gion district, ‘no photography’ signs have been erected to discourage disrespectful tourists from loitering and harassing local Geishas for selfies.
“Overtourism is a growing issue around the world, but with Japan’s popularity, we are seeing it as a growing issue in certain places, such as Kyoto and Mt Fuji,” explains InsideJapan’s PR & Partnerships Manager, James Mundy. “The issue is about growing numbers of people crowding in the same places, but also cultural understanding – or rather a lack of – and getting in the way of everyday life. Inside Japan has always worked with local property owners, crafts people and guides and has made it its mission to introduce travellers to the culture that makes this place special along with a little bit of etiquette education which can go along way.
“Our travel consultants have all lived or travelled in Japan and as a company, we all believe that InsideJapan really is the best at what it does with first-hand knowledge and experience from pretty much all over the country. With our Japan operations team, we know our suppliers firsthand. We will of course help customers navigate the busy streets of Tokyo and Kyoto but help them find those quieter yet no less interesting pockets. Our staff will also suggest places that agents and customers may have never heard of, but they will be places often unspoilt by crowds of tourists offering the Japan cultural experience and adventure that we at InsideJapan all fell in love with years ago.”
“Japan is beginning to address the issue of overtourism, particularly in popular destinations like Kyoto, with further measures expected to be implemented to tackle its impact,” added JNTO’s Yumi. “To ease congestion amongst local bus passengers, a new bus service that exclusively serves tourist spots has been operating since June. Additionally, a luggage forwarding service is available in and around the city, encouraging visitors to use public transport by reducing the need for large luggage space during peak times.”
To play their part, agents can recommend clients visit Japan outside of peak times (for example sakura season in March) and to venture further afield.
“Whilst many tours to Japan focus on the Golden route, which includes Tokyo and Kyoto, we ask agents to consider recommending tours beyond this route,” said Yumi. “By doing so, your customers can explore less-visited and beautiful areas of the country on more relaxed tours.”
“Japan has most certainly become a top tourist destination but with many visitors from around the world making their way to Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, Sapporo and Hiroshima,” said Paul Christie, CEO, Walk Japan. “Bolder travellers, however, are increasingly venturing further into the regions. Japan, after all, stretches over 3,000km from the Siberian Sea of Okhotsk in the northeast to the sub-tropical East China Sea in the southwest, and is composed of the four main islands of Hokkaido, Honshu, Shikoku and Kyushu, the Okinawan island chain plus many thousands of other islands.
“To put it mildly, there is a tremendous amount of variety to explore across Japan,” he added
Walk Japan, unsurprisingly, specialises in walking tours. “Walking, being an innate human pursuit, offers an immersive experience, allowing us to connect well with our surroundings while creating space for personal and communal time. It serves as an ideal avenue for socialising with fellow travellers, engaging with locals, and fostering a sense of belonging within the natural environment and local communities,” said Paul.
But what if your client has their heart set on seeing the famous cherry blossoms? Perhaps Tohoku is the answer. David Peat, Senior Product Executive at Audley Travel recommends: “Visitors to Japan often believe that the chance to see the iconic cherry blossom is limited but by heading north to Tohoku, where it blooms later in the year, this period is expanded.”
A taste of Japan
Have you ever wished your food could dance?
Probably not, but the waving katsuobushi (or ‘Bonito flakes’) adorning a steaming hot platter of takoyaki (battered octopus) is likely the closest thing you’ll get. The wafer-thin flakes of dried and smoked tuna-like fish curl and wave when met with heat and steam, adding an ethereal interest to the dish – as well as a rich umami flavour.
Sampling the best of Japanese cuisine is made easier with an Arigato Travel food tour. In Osaka I join seasoned tour guide Miyuki for an evening of culinary exploration in the city’s bustling Dotonbori district. Make sure to arrive hungry – for both food and knowledge! Traversing Dotonbori’s hidden alleyways, dining at a hidden kushikatsu (fried skewer) restaurant easily missed by passers-by, and learning how to decode Japanese menus are all things I would have missed had I not been accompanied by a guide.
Miyuki was also able to give context to some of Dotonori’s more obscure decor, including Kuidaore Taro, a red-and-white-stripe-clad, drum-playing clown known as the mascot of Dotonbori. Kuidaore Taro is so popular and loved by locals that you can even buy Kuidaore Taro socks.
What’s new
Journey to Tsuruga: The Hokuriku Shinkansen (bullet train) line has recently been extended by 124km to Tsuruga station in Fukui Prefecture. Home to the Kehi Shrine and a number of picturesque beaches, Tsuruga is worth a visit. shinkansen-ticket.com
See the sights: Also in Tsuruga, a new sight seeing train Hana Akari by JR West is set to launch in October travelling between Tsuruga Station (where the new Hokuriku Shinkansen now ends) and Kinosaki Onsen. westjr.co.jp
Take to the skies: A new helicopter and hiking tour will take flight in Shizuoka this September exploring Japan’s Southern Alps. Offering views of Mount Fuji and its surrounding peaks, the tour includes stops at a rejuvenating mountain onsen, a traditional ryokan and Japan’s most remote whisky distillery. lns-nihon.jp
Glamping in Kawaguchiko: Newly-renovated villas at Glamping Villa Hanz in Kawaguchiko offer a serene escape amidst the natural beauty of Japan’s Fuji Five Lakes region, providing an alternative base to Hakone. gv-hanz.com
Fly to Nagoya: In May Finnair resumed its twice-weekly connection between Helsinki and Nagoya – Japan’s fourth largest city. finnair.com
Take a tour
Hidden Japan: For clients seeking cultural insight and experiences away from the standard tourist trail, consider InsideJapan’s Hidden Japan tour. Join a small group of 4-14 people for a 12-night journey through Kyoto, Mount Koya, Tokushima, Takamatsu, Kotohira, Matsuyama and Hiroshima. insidejapantours.com
One step forward: Walk Japan has launched the new Kyoto: Mountains to the Sea tour exploring Kyoto Prefecture, a rural region where the contrast with Kyoto’s urban landscape could not be more stark. The fully-guided eight-day tour ventures through Kyoto’s backcountry. walkjapan.com
Spiritual heartland: Bamboo Travel has added a 13-night Japan’s Spiritual Heartland tour to its portfolio. Travellers can journey through Japan’s heartland, including a multi-day walk along the Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail, and a night at the revered Mount Koya. bambootravel.co.uk
Sakura search: The cherry blossom season has expanded with the re-introduction of Tohoku to Audley Travel’s portfolio of destinations. Located in the most northern region of the mainland, the iconic flowers bloom into April. audleytravel.com
Deluxe with Geluxe: From discovering the villages outside Kyoto on foot and kayaking Japan’s deepest lake, to walking the newly-opened Michinoku Coastal Trail, G Adventure’s Japan: Kyoto, Tokyo & the Michinoku Coastal Trail dives deep into Japan’s past and present. Each day has ample opportunity to explore outdoors. gadventures.com
Where to book it
Travel from super-modern Tokyo to villages, castles and temples that remain unchanged from the times of the Shogun and Samurai on a 14-day ‘Simply Japan’ tour with Explore. Starting at £3,999pp for 14 days including breakfast and accommodation, including a night in a traditional ryokan and one night in a monastery and internal travel. explore.co.uk
